Courtesy of Warren Woodcox (Prime id: warrenw)
Just finished this. Here are the details.
Before I did this upgrade, I had a lot of questions. Hopefully I can answer some of those questions for others contemplating this upgrade.
This is a very complete kit, and I will mention that with the exception of the wiring harness. All parts including brackets, hard brake lines, etc are Honda factory parts from the 2000 – 2005 ALB system. This is not a modification as much as a Honda factory upgrade. Every hard brake line gets replaced in the car with the exception of the two that run from the front junction block to each of the rear corners.
I would say this has a difficulty level of 6/10.
7 -8 hours for the first time. I am sure it can be done with 5 hours with experience.
- Remove spare tire
- Remove battery
- Remove the sub relay box and disconnect the three heater A/C blower electrical connectors
- Remove the four heater A/C blower bolts and remove the blower assembly
- Remove brake fluid from ABS reservoir using a turkey baster (the third thing a turkey baster can be used for!)
- Remove brake fluid from master cylinder using the turkey baster method
- Release pressure from ABS accumulator using the ABS bleeder tool.
- Put car up on stands and drain brakes at calipers
- Flare nut wrench and Flare nut socket are required…
- Remove the two brake lines from the master cylinder to the ABS modulator
- Remove the two rear wheel brake lines from the hydraulic junction block
- Remove the last four brake lines from the ABS modulator
- Disconnect all six electrical connections from the ABS modulator/pump/accumulator assembly
- Remove the three 15mm bolts that fasten the modulator, accumulator, pump assembly to the left inside fender and remove the old system as a complete unit. SoS instructions state to remove the ABS protective bracket, but I found this unnecessary
- Remove the three fasteners holding the right front brake line.
- Remove the hard RF brake line from the old modulator to junction in wheel well. (a lot of cleaning around the junction in the wheel well to ensure no dirt gets into the brake line) a cap put in place of removed hard brake line.
- Remove the hard LF brake line from the old modulator to junction in wheel well. (again a lot of time spent cleaning in the wheel well)
- Installed new RF brake line (complete with bolt down fasteners) Line needs to be bent slightly to put in place. More bending around where the line enters the wheel well.
- Installed new LF brake line (no fasteners on this line, so junction in wheel well is not 100% tight until new modulator in place. Again, more bending of the line required to put in place. (removal of the rear brakes/clutch junction block really helps to get this line in place.
- Remove glove box and cross air duct
- Unplug the ALB module cables (2)
- I decided to remove the ALB module as it may be valuable to someone else. You can remove it without removing the component cradle, by removing the front left bolt from the other side of the firewall, and the front right bolt via a flex extension and 10mm socket.
- Installing the new cabling is a difficult process as the connectors and harness need to pass through a grommet on the passenger side. I cut a slot below the existing harness and then used a small wood clamp to force the existing harness up as high as it physically can go. I did release the right front speed sensor connector on the inside of the fender to make room for this. The harness and connectors passed through with ease.
- Connected the new harness to the existing ALB connectors, grounded and tied two diagnostic leads to the blue service connector for easy future access.
- Routed other end of new harness to new modulator location
- Mount new modulator and Proportioning Valve Assembly on old cast aluminum mounting bracket from old modulator.
- A lot of hard brake lines to install. Eight in total
- Connect the hard brake lines to the proportioning valve and modulator before mounting the modulator
- Ran the rest of the hard lines not a lot of detail in the SOS instructions on exactly where all these lines line up or the order to install them all, however their pictures did help
- Connect the new wiring harness to the modulator and connect the two power lines using the connector from the old modulator ABS pump.
- Started the brake bleeding process one corner at a time and repeat a couple of times. Gravity bleeding seems to work well but to get fluid flowing; you must manual bleed each corner twice.
- Ensure to continue to wipe any area with a damp rage under the hood where any brake fluid has been spilled. (brake fluid is really hard on paint, and will peal the paint)
- Clean heater/blower with Tea Tree Oil and water to remove any musty smell in the blower.
- Remove blower motor and lube.
- Reinstall blower assembly and connect electrical
- Install battery
- Start car and bleed brakes once more with vacuum assist
- Perform Keyless Entry Mod to flash park lamps with lock/unlock function (I planned on doing this, but because the glove box was already out, now was the time)
- Reassemble interior, install glove box and cross air duct.
- Wheels back on, cleanup and test drive
The reused mounting bracket is Cast Aluminum, not Cast Iron (as described in the instructions). The instructions
could use more pictures and the exact order to connect all the hard lines from the ABS/proportioning valve to the rest of the car. I had a little trouble to get all the lines in a nice orderly line.
A torque setting for the hard lines would be nice. I didn’t know if I was over tightening or under tightening. I had just one leak, so I guess I did just fine.
Other than that, this was a fairly easy upgrade
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