[MBA – 2000/7/27] Don’t forget when mounting the V1, that it is very important that it be perfectly parallel to the roadway. I’m amazed at how many cars come into my shop with the unit pointing to the heavens, or the road. I transferred mine from my NSX to the CRV once while in a hurry, and when I didn’t get the usual ‘warnings’, I checked my install and discovered it was very tilted. I straightened it out and got an immediate increase in the number of quality ‘targets’.
[BT] I mounted my Valentine one using the windshield mount, just below the rear view mirror. I hard wired the wires around the top of the windshield, under the roofing material. It’s a clean installation and provides the V1’s rear detector access through the back window.
[AW] Honda has provided four "option connectors" for accessories right above the interior fuse panel (by the drivers left leg). These are documented in the Electrical Troubleshooting Manual, which is why I always buy those manuals when I buy a car I’m going to modify or maintain myself. A couple inches above the top of the fuse panel is a row of four 1/4" male terminals, as follows:
C910 (rear-most): hot with running and headlights
C911 (second from rear): hot with ignition
C912 (second from front): hot all the time (i.e. battery)
C913 (front-most): hot with accessories.
I used C913 for my V1. Previous owner had drilled a little tiny hole in a nearby steel bracket, and used a #6 sheet-metal screw for a ground, so I used that, although there is an "official" ground point nearby (G401) just forward of the fuse panel which could probably be used. Either way, it's neat, clean, RELIABLE (like the car was before you started messing with it) and invisible when you put the fuse panel cover back on. For "conventional" detector mounting you can run the resulting cable up behind the windshield pillar trim (it pulls off, but be careful) and above the headliner and have it come out right by the rear view mirror.
I mounted my V1 at the bottom center of the rear window (on my Comptech restraint frame) and use the V. remote display tucked under the door of the clock adjuster. Very discrete and convenient.
[LL] I’m now ready to supply the Valentine One detector mounting bracket kits spoken of earlier. For those that don’t remember: A long time ago Keith Jarett queried the list about a bracket to mount his camera that would double as a detector mount (or vice/versa?). Since I had been planning on this for some time, I volunteered to do a bracket/kit. Detectors have been remote mounted for years, mostly on bikes, Andy had a V1 mounted in this same position on his 914. I asked Andy for his advise on this location for the unit, as it mounts the unit a little lower than the typical visor mount. Andy felt there would be little or no pickup degradation in this location and expressed an interest in a bracket himself. For those of you who do not know Andy (just fell off the turnip truck) and Gary Milgrom are the lists resident detector *experts*, I believe it’s a portion of Andy’s livelihood.
Camera mount: Keith wanted to try a support design that did not destroy any parts, so he suggested we try a support from the console. I wasn’t crazy about this, but did fabricate it for him. Apparently with a stabilized camera it is working out. We may ultimately make another support that goes through an interior panel to something solid. I don’t intend on making the camera supports, but will be happy to furnish drawings for the parts.
I am however very happy with the detector bracket itself. Please visit David’s web site for Keith’s excellent write-up. The detector only bracket is about 1/2" narrower, 3/4" shorter and .030 thinner. It is constructed of high strength 5052 aluminum .090 thick. They are powder coated in a textured black that matches the ABS plastic enclosure fairly close. It bolts to two existing bolts under the upper rear cover just below the rear window. The top of the bracket’s detector shelf sits just above the height of the engine cover. Note: this set-up is for non-T’s, we’ll have to talk if T guys are interested, we/you may need to space up or change the bracket. No cutting or drilling required, we got very lucky here. It takes only a few minutes to install the bracket.
The cover is made of .090 textured ABS plastic with a .060 end cap on the front side. The front cover on the laser units stops just above the laser pickup sensor. The back end is covered with a .060 thick dark red translucent acrylic. I can use an actual junk yard lens, but I have to scour the juck yards and then dissect the assembly. Most all of the lens now are bonded onto the light assembly, and yards nowadays want big money for this little stuff. So I’ll have to ask for an adder for this. I think I like the non-lens plastic better. I’m not sure I want mine to look *that* much like an actual stoplight. The detector itself will be Velcroed. I’m setting up the covers to be held on by 4 small screws from the bottom, although Velcro would work just fine for those that will remove the unit frequently.
My plans at the moment are to make a run of about 8-10 more of these bracket/cover box kits and offer them for $99 +S&H. Delivery time about 3-4 weeks. Money back guarantee of course, no hard feelings on returns. If I move this number of units, I’ll just about make back the $250 or so I’ve blown on development.
Talk is cheap of course, but I wouldn’t offer units that were not of the superior quality that our machines deserve. Soon I’ll send a few photo’s of the detector only unit for insertion in the web page article. There is some insulation covering up a portion of the bracket in one of the photos that makes the bracket cut-out work look poor, I assure you it’s not.
I wasn’t planning on supplying any parts for the remote display or audio controls, but I may get into these parts if needed. I mounted my audio remote in the same location as Keith, but bolted it instead. I recessed my visual display into the instrument surround ring in the area of the TCS, I pulled the TCS switch however. I have an idea for a mount on top of the instrument ring just above the TCS switch. I’ll work up a bracket for it this week. There are several locations for this item.
Having lived with this system for two weeks now, I *really* like it and the V1. Should have bought the V1 years ago, it’s worth the bucks. While the unit does stick out into the cockpit, it doesn’t seem too obtrusive. It’s not visible when you walk up to the car unless you lean over quite far.
If you want one of these kits, I’ll need to know if you want the cover box for the laser model or not. The non laser unit is shorter in height and as mentioned earlier is not cut out in the front. I can also supply the bracket sans box, or the bracket sans powder coat, etc, just ask. Or if you want the drawings to work from, that’s fine also. I would only ask you keep them in our non-profit "family".
Feel free to private me for details not covered here at email@example.com.
[DG] I have installed my V1 on the center visor over the rearview mirror. I powered it using the auxilliary stepdown converter provided with the unit (the one that’s hardwired, rather than the one that plugs into the cigarette lighter). I tucked this power supply up in the headliner by wrapping it in foam, then sliding it in an opening accessed by removing the overhead light (it JUST fits!).
I wired the power supply to the leads to the overhead light using snap connectors, then ran the power to the V1 using a short phone cord (about 8"). I ran that line through the existing hole for the left mount on the right visor, so that barely any wire sticks out.
I mounted the V1 using the standard visor clip, but inserted a small rubber bushing on top to properly tilt the visor to make the V1 level.
This is a very neat installation that provides great line-of-sight and makes no new holes in the NSX. Plus, I can easily swap the V1 between my two cars, because I use the windshield mount and the cigarette adapter in the Bimmer.
[CM] I had my Acura mechanic hard wire my Valentine One in my NSX. The unit itself is mounted with the suction cup mount just to the right of the rearview mirror. I made sure that it was just low enough to allow the rear sensor to "see" through the rear window. The cord is pressed under the window molding and follows down the A pillar to the fuse panel left of the driver’s side footwell.
There is an open fuse slot in which the power converter is mounted. This piece splits off and I have added the concealed display which sits atop the steering column. No wires are visible, and the unit works great with no obstruction to me or the radar signal. Again, my mechanic did all the work, so please don’t respond with any tech questions as I know NOTHING about the electrical connections. Hope this helps.
[KP] Personally, I mounted my V1 using the windshield suction cup mount. I placed it near the top of the windshield immediately to the right of the rear view mirror. I routed the power wire into the front edge of the headliner and down to the drivers kick panel area via the A pillar. (This A-pillar "garnish" pulls off.)
Inside the kick panel, I taped into an accessory wire so that the V1 turns on and off with the car. Sorry – but I don’t remember what wire this was. A switched accessory wire usually isn’t too hard to find. The current draw of the V1 is about nil so I wouldn’t worry about where you get the power.
Oh, be careful to steer clear of any wires wrapped in yellow harnesses. These are for the airbag and are to be left alone. Airbag deployments are no fun.
[KW] Hope this info helps as an alternative V1 mount.
- Purchase a "Case Logic" soft floppy/Zip disk case. This case is made of nylon, cardboard, and has a zipper. Radar passes through this material without problem. The height of the case is almost exactly the thickness of the V1 detector with laser option. The width is approximately the width of the NSX's sun visor. Length of the case is about 4 inches shorter than the 95T+ NSX sun visor. Cut out the nylon mesh on the inside of the case to reduce bulk. You can find this case in most computer stores.
- Place the V1 detector inside the middle of the case and cut a small rectangular slit to expose the laser detection portions of the V1. To secure the V1 detector from moving around in the case, I used two blocks of foam on each side of the detector.
- Purchase 2 black Velcro straps. Cut 4, 1 inch slits in the case to snake the velcre straps through. Wrap the velcro straps around the passenger sun visor in order to secure the case. When installed in this fashion, the V1 detector has a clear view out the windshield. The detector is hidden, and anyone looking into the car will think that they are looking at a visor/CD organizer. Very stealthy. Due to the size of the case, the visor is still functional.
- I Velcroed my remote display unit on the hazard light/cruise control stalk. I also took a black permanent marker to mask out the white logo on the display unit so that it does not attract attention.
- The remote volume control unit sits inside my ash tray.
- All wiring is hidden in the car's A pillar, and center console.
Hope this info helps some of you looking to do a stealth V1 install.
[DLJ] I bought the extension, but didn’t use it. Originally I mounted the Valentine on the windshield, but it is too far to reach, and is *very* visible to anyone standing outside the car (theft and bad impression on a police officer).
I have mounted mine on the roof, in place of the little middle sunshade. I have a smaller mirror, so it "looks" right over the mirror. I’ve tested sensitivity in this area, and it seems the same as on the windshield (find a constant source, park the car, move the Valentine around). AND you can’t see it if you are standing up and looking at the car, *from any direction*.
I put the main power on a switch that is in the "coin tray", so that I can easily turn it off without reaching up to is, were I to ever, ever be stopped by a police-person.
[CA – 99/6/20] I got a chance to put my V1 in my NSX today, I decided to take a different route than the conventional on-the-windshield install. I have to give Larry Long credit for the install idea….
I put the main receiver between the headrests above the horizontal trim piece barely touching the back window, you wouldn’t know it was there unless you knew what to look for. Tinted windows help a bit as well. Here is a synopsis of the install.
I used lead from the fuse box ( very farthest red fuse on the bottom row) I couldn’t see what location number it was, but I tapped into that for power and grounded to the bolt that secures the upper dash pieces to the lower and dash support frame; this was very convenient. I didn’t use any of the supplied V1 "phone wire" but used some extra wire I had from my communications days. The V1 wire wasn’t long enough to reach, I kind of wish it did, because my wire is white. Black would have made it even more hidden. I secured the power distribution to the flat piece of plastic above the footwell fuse box. I ran the phone cord along the driver side by pulling up the carpet and running the wore along side all the other wires. You will have to remove the trim aft of the fuel door release and the trim piece immediately aft of that one just below the seat belt trim. This will allow you to easily route the wire up to the center of the back window.
I used a piece of 90 degree angled metal used for shelving (I think the 3 inch size). I used the vise and hammer to contour it to the shape of the back window, and secured it with the grounding bolt that secures a bundle of wires. It took some patience, but it turned out great. Too bad I didnt have the patience to have it powder coated or spray painted.
After installing all the trim I cut the wire just short enough to plug into the unit and leave a bit of slack. I used velcro tape to secure the V1 to the bracket (get the industrial strength tape, it works much better!!!) attached the RJ11 phone jack, plugged it in and tested. Everything works great!!! I plan on getting another remote display unit; I can’t seem to find
the original one. I havent decided where to install this yet, but I am thinking above the rear view mirror would be a good place.
Here are a couple of possible problems you may encounter. Whenever I work on the NSX with door(s) open, I ALWAYS remove the interior light fuse in the fuse box by the spare tire. This saves on battery life. Also make sure if you make you own phone cord to reverse the colors of the wires relative to the plug (I always use tab down for reference). When plugging into the power distribution, for example, it could be black red green yellow. When installing the jack at the V1 side it would be yellow green red black. Just compare the factory V1 wires for reference. I didn’t make this mistake doing this install, but I could see how it would be easy to do.
Larry long went the extra mile and made a covering that looked like a 3rd brake light to go over the V1, this is pretty slick and will keep this in mind of I drive through Canada or Virginia.
[WSC – 99/6/17] I have the remote display and remote speaker V-1. The unit is mounted on the camera mount attached to my harness bar right between the seats. It is difficult to see, especially if the officer is looking in the drivers window. The remote display is in the lower left corner of the windshield at the base of the A pillar. The remote speaker and volume control is glued to the inside of the center console just right of my thigh, also invisible from the driver’s window. This combo works great. I’ve had the car three years, no tickets….yet.
[SA – 99/3/22] Here is what I did. The fuse box is located above your left foot. I ran a wire from the fuse box, up the door molding and under the molding along the top of the windshield. I then came out of the molding directly above the rear view mirror and left enough wire to reach the V1. When the wire is not in use, you can tuck it up in the mini visor above the mirror.
The molding pops off pretty easily, but you do need to use some force. You do not have to modify the molding at all.
As for the fuse box, find a fuse that is in a circuit that gets power when the key is turned. (Radio works). Now you have two choices. One, jam the hot wire under one of the fuse prongs. I don’t like this approach because it is pretty crude and can cause the fuse to malfunction. A better approach is to grind off (find someone with a power grinder) part of the plastic on the fuse to expose the metal. Then solder the hot wire from your V1 to the metal. Reinsert fuse and you are done.
[PML – 2000/7/27] I have my main unit on a cell phone stand between the seats on the hump above the center speaker. the remote power and audio right next to the seat next to the gas latch. and the remote display on the dash on the driver side right under the registration sticker. It works pretty well for me. I want to eventually make i cover for it so it will look like a brake light
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